A Visit to the Sidon Soap Museum

Holy Week in Lebanon

The Door of All Saints Church in Beirut on Good Friday


One of the great things about living in Lebanon is the special feeling around religious events. It doesn't matter whether you are Christian or Muslim (I'm using these as examples as they are the main religions in Lebanon), there is a real Holy feel surrounding special times in each faith.

We recently had Holy Week, the week between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday. One of the main events of the week happens on Maundy Thursday. This is the day that Christ washed his disciples feet before they sat down to eat the Last Supper. In Lebanon it is tradition to walk seven churches. Literally, that's it. You get your walking shoes on and visit seven different churches. Fortunately, there are so many churches that finding a place where there are seven reasonably close to each other is not that difficult! As you do this, you become part of a thronging crown of people all following the same pilgrimage.


One of the things I like the best is that you get to visit different denominations as you walk around. We usually end up going from the Armenian Cathedral to the Maronite Cathedral, then on to the Evangelical Cathedral and the nearby Roman Catholic church. We also go to the Greek Orthodox church down the road and a couple of others. Before you know it, seven have been visited and it's time to go home.

This is the front of the service sheet from the Good Friday Meditation Service at All Saints

Good Friday is a quiet, quiet day. It's an official Bank Holiday (one of 22 in Lebanon!) and the usually busy streets are suitably empty. Church bells can be heard pealing, especially in the Christian mountains overlooking Beirut where bells from neighbouring villages join together in their lament. It's a spiritual time. Despite the often sunny weather there is an air of sadness penetrating the atmosphere. In fact, despite this year's sunny Good Friday, it is usually punctuated with a well-timed thunder storm; as if the Bible story is being re-enacted - as if we need further addition to the sombre feeling of the day.

The mood does a 180 degree turn on Sunday. Families dress up in their new clothes and go to church to celebrate. There are egg hunts, LOTS of hugging and kissing, and big family lunches. Restaurants are packed. Typical tables comprise families from babies in high chairs to grand parents with walking sticks. It's a special family time in a country where family is very important.

Some of the crosses that were on display at All Saints on Good Friday.

Waiting for Godot (well, Charles actually… But Godot sounded more interesting!)

I was wondering the other day. Wondering is something I tend to do a lot of. Well, this time my meandering mind was winding itself around the question of how much time I spend waiting.

Lots of us spend time waiting, especially in those traditional “waiting places” like the doctor’s, dentist’s or train platform; my musings took me to quite a positive place – surprising as that may seem considering the subject.

I was waiting for Charles. That’s the kind of waiting that I participate in most frequently. Each weekday after school I try to fill my time industriously as I wait for Charles to finish work in Achrafieh and come to collect me from my work on the Cornishe near to Manara (Arabic for lighthouse).

The traffic is always bad so I try to get down to the main road in time to leap into the car as he passes. As I was saying, I managed to get to quite a positive place with these waiting thoughts. I was contemplating all the places that I could be waiting and decided that things could be a lot worse; they could also be a lot better – but in line with my positive thinking today I’m not going there! While I waited I snapped a few shots of the shoreline beside me.

It wasn’t a particularly fantastic day weather-wise, just a usual spring day. Various people walked or ran on the wide pavement. Families promenaded with children scooting about in all directions. The human traffic was about a tenth of the crowds there are later in the evening or at weekends. Seriously, the Cornishe has a whole life of its own. I need to take more pictures and write about that some time.

Back to the wondering. I decided certain things: waiting helps you become more patient, I get jobs done at school that I don’t have time for during the day, you notice things you might never usually see, the fact that I wait for Charles and we share a car is good for the environment, and we get to spend a lot of time together as we struggle through the Beirut traffic to get home. On that positive note…